ABSTRACT

Wave transformation in coastal zone occurs due to near-resonant triad interactions between wave components. Near-resonant triad interactions cause periodic exchange of energy between nonlinear harmonics and phase shift changes between them. This causes wave asymmetry changes and, as a result, fluctuations in short wave component of sediment transport that are expressed in changes of bathymetry. The main point of the work is to determine where mismatch is observed: in wavenumbers or in frequencies and how it depends on coastal zone parameters and wave regimes.